Clear Chinese tofu soup

It happened. You bragged to your husband about never getting sick, but it finally happened. You're sick as a dog. You've got the cold from hell. the flu from the underworld. the sinus infection from the Super Mario Underground level. Only one thing can save you now. A humble little Chinese soup. No bright colors. No frills. Could the lesson here be...humility? A delicate, almost water-clear tofu soup in the style of the simple soups served at Chinese restaurants. The trick is keeping the broth pale and restrained: ginger, scallion, white pepper, and a little mushroom seasoning give it surprising depth without turning it into a heavy vegetable stock. Silken tofu and tender greens make it especially cozy.

Ingredients

• 4 cups water
• 10–12 oz silken or soft tofu, cut into roughly 1-inch cubes
• 3 thin slices ginger
• 2 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced
• 1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 tsp sugar
• 1/8 tsp white pepper
• 1/2 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 1/2 tsp mushroom seasoning, such as Po Lo Ku, or vegetarian mushroom/chicken-style bouillon
• 1 tsp light soy sauce, optional (omit for the clearest broth)
• Small handful baby bok choy, napa cabbage, pea shoots, or spinach, optional

Alternative to mushroom seasoning

• 1/4 tsp MSG
• About 3/4 tsp salt, replacing the salt and mushroom seasoning above; adjust to taste

Method

1. Add the water, ginger, and scallion whites to a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5–8 minutes. Avoid a hard boil.
2. Season with the salt, sugar, white pepper, and mushroom seasoning. The sugar should not make the soup taste sweet; it simply rounds out the broth.
3. Carefully slide in the tofu. Keep at a very gentle simmer for 3–4 minutes. Avoid stirring more than necessary so the soft tofu stays intact.
4. If using greens, add them near the end: about 30 seconds for spinach or pea shoots, and 1–2 minutes for napa cabbage or baby bok choy.
5. Turn off the heat. Stir in the sesame oil and, if using, the light soy sauce. Taste and adjust the salt.
6. Serve immediately with the sliced scallion greens scattered over the top.

Notes

Most boxed American vegetable stock is too dark, sweet, or strongly flavored for this soup. Water plus Chinese mushroom seasoning is a better base. For an especially clear restaurant-style broth, use the MSG-and-salt variation and omit the soy sauce.

For a slightly more elaborate homemade light broth, simmer napa cabbage, shiitake stems, scallion whites, and ginger in water for about 20 minutes, strain, and use that liquid in place of the water.